| Animal Behaviour This is a lengthy document, so you may prefer to use the table of contents below to quickly find a section of interest: Introduction Animal behaviour is what an animal does. Animals DO many things, some of which endear them to us, while others can be a problem. Animals can do many useful things, and these types of behaviours have been utilised by people in many ways. The best examples can be found within dogs, where various types of dogs have been selectively bred and trained to perform tasks for people, utilising natural behaviours e.g. guide dogs, sniffing dogs, retrieving dogs, sheep dogs etc. Animals also do things that are not useful in our society, and it is these behaviours that attract a lot of publicity and concern e.g. cats killing wildlife, dog attacks, etc. It is important to realise that these behaviours can be natural, instinctive ones or they may be abnormal responses. Normal behaviours make up the vast majority of cases. It is also important to recognise that what is a problem behaviour for one person, or in one situation may not be a problem to someone else, or in another situation. So it is important to consider not just the behaviour, but the severity, frequency, and circumstances under which the behaviour occurs. Many problematic behaviours are just normal responses to stress. These stresses can be imposed on animals by the way they now have to live in our society. Animals still retain the instinctual, wild behaviours of their ancestors, even though they have been domesticated over time, and their relationship with humans has become closer and more dependent. Because of the way animals now live with us in our societies, we impose artificial constraints and modifications of their natural or inherent lifestyle and behaviours. If the behaviour of animals can cause hassles, why do we bother keeping them?. The comments here refer to pets or companion animals, as the topics of food animals and animals kept for sport are beyond the scope of this article. We have developed a close relationship with animals over thousands of years for many reasons, but always because animals fulfil some human need. They can be our helper, performing useful tasks, such as hunting prey or vermin, herding livestock, guard territory etc. They are important for providing companionship, especially for people who may feel isolated in society, such as the elderly or the intellectually handicapped. Relationships with animals can substitute for intimate human relationships in many circumstances, and such relationships are known to improve the health, self esteem, and socialisation opportunities of the people involved. Many parents like to keep a pet to develop responsibility, caring and understanding in their children. Often pets are considered cute and cuddly, and caring for them makes us feel good about ourselves and fulfils a parental or caring need. An intimate and caring bond develops as a result. Companion animals may also have spiritual significance in certain cultures. We will now consider some of the common behavioural problems of dogs and cats. When trying to understand, and then resolve problems with pet behaviour, it is essential to remember what has previously been discussed. We now keep animals in environments of OUR choosing, not theirs. This is artificial, and may be stressful. Natural behaviours are retained, to a greater or lesser extent, and these need to be expressed. Such expression may or may not be beneficial in the pets environment. Many people are looking for a quick and easy fix to behaviours that are causing a problem for them or the larger community. Like most things in life, quick fixes, with drugs, diet or surgery alone are unlikely to completely solve the problem. In most cases what is required is an understanding of WHY the problem is occurring, and then implementing changes in the animals routine and environment. Medications and other therapies can be a useful part of the whole process, and help in the establishment of more favourable patterns of behaviour. Even when all this is done, sometimes it is still not possible to "cure" all animals. Animals differ from each other in personality, intelligence and motivation. While general principles hold true for all cases, each situation involving animals, humans and the physical world is unique. Remember too that many abnormal or unusual behaviours may have a physical basis. Any thorough investigation of an animal behaviour problem should include a complete physical examination by a veterinarian. COMMON BEHAVIOURAL PROBLEMS OF DOGS There are many problem behaviours that may occur from time to time, however we will consider only barking and aggression here. Please contact us for information about other problems. Barking is a natural thing for a dog to do, and is a very important form of communication. Often people choose to own a dog because it will bark, and alert them when intruders enter the property, increasing their feeling of safety. However, this natural behaviour can become a problem if it is excessive and/or inappropriate. Barking is an important problem in the urban environment, where people live closely together. Excessive barking can become a source of annoyance and frustration to neighbours, and can provoke complaints and retaliation against the offending animal and its owners. Most dogs appear to enjoy barking . Dogs bark excessively for a reason, and finding out WHY the dog is barking is essential in treating this problem. For some dogs, a barking problem can be controlled by allowing the dog to bark in a particular place at a particular time e.g. such as during a morning run in the park. By choosing an appropriate time and place for the dog to express this natural behaviour, the dogs vocal frustration can be relieved. It is important that the dog is always under voice control, and that the rules of the exercise are known to the dog, and are adhered to strictly. If barking occurs at other times, then this can be a problem. There are two main types of barking: alarm barking and attention seeking barking. Alarm barking occurs when the dog is very stimulated, and can be controlled by reducing the stimulation to bark. There are many techniques which may be appropriate, depending on the reason for the barking. For instance, if the dog is stimulated by animals or people passing by the property, then replacing a slat fence with a solid fence or rehousing the dog in to a more secluded area, such as the back yard may be beneficial. If the human homecoming is stimulating, then this routine needs to altered to reduce the stimulation. If boredom or excess energy (mental and/or physical) is involved, then providing adequate physical exercise and stimulating games is required. Attention seeking barking often has its origins in separation anxiety. Many dogs feel stressed and insecure away from their owners, and bark to gain attention and relieve anxiety. The need for social interaction is strong in dogs, as they have evolved as a pack animal. Attention seeking barking often has a component of boredom and frustration. This is often seem with animals who may bark continually whenever their owner is away. If boredom is a factor, then finding meaningful activities for the dog to do to keep it busy during the separation can help. There are various toys and games available for this purpose. There are also emerging a number of "dog day care centres", where dogs can interact together while the owner is away. In some instances, the administration of anti-anxiety medication may be required if the condition is severe. Dogs may also bark , because they have been conditioned to think that barking produces a desirable outcome for them e.g. makes the owner come home or the car go the park. These cases can usually be retrained to break the link between the barking and the outcome (from the dogs point of view). Anti-barking collars are available, and can be used with some success. However, while the collars may reduce the barking, they do not treat the CAUSE of the barking. The same anxiety or frustration which is eliciting the barking will still be present, and may be expressed in another way, e.g digging, self-mutilation. Likewise debarking operations can be performed, but these again do nothing to address the underlying causes of the barking. Our own opinion is that these operations are dangerous, painful and cruel and should be banned. Our clinic will not perform debarking operations on any animal. Aggression is one of the most common problem behaviours seen in dogs, and the most serious. Aggression can be directed towards other dogs or people. It is important to remember that ANY dog has the potential to be aggressive, with dogs differing from each other in temperament and motivations. Aggression is influenced by many factors, including genetics, history, and the individual circumstances at the time. An understanding of the causes of aggression will also help to avoid a lot of problems. Although many cases of aggression can be treated effectively, there are some animals whose aggressive behaviour can never be adequately controlled. Euthanasia MUST be considered in these cases. The aggressive behaviour displayed by dogs can be grouped for convenience into different categories: 1. Pain-Induced Aggression. If a dog is injured, or otherwise in pain, it may behave aggressively. Be mindful of this if you are trying to help an injured pet. It may be best to apply a soft muzzle, as even a normally placid animal may bite when in pain. Likewise, if a normally placid animal starts suddenly behaving aggressively, it would be wise to have it checked over by a veterinarian. The animal may be in pain, or have some other physical disturbance that is influencing the behaviour 2. Maternal Aggression. Females with young pups may behave aggressively. This is a natural response. Be aware of this potential. 3. Territorial Aggression Dogs have a territory, usually their home. They will often defend it, by barking or by more aggressive means. Again, the tendency to display territorial aggression is influenced by many factors. Territorial aggression can be a problem for workers who must enter other peoples yards. Thankfully now a lot of information is available on how to avoid conflicts in these situations e.g. Bark Busters "Stand Right-No Bite" courses. 4. Predatory aggression. The instincts to chase, heel and kill are natural, and of course are likely to be stronger in certain breeds which have been selected for these characteristics. e.g. working dogs and retrievers. It is important to be aware of this before choosing a pet dog. These behaviours are often stronger in a pack environment, and this is one of the reasons why dogs should not be allowed to roam freely. They should always be adequately restrained in areas where interaction with targets for predatory aggression could occur. Dogs should be given plenty of appropriate physical and mental exercise. They should be properly trained not to jump, chase or lick. Adequate socialisation is essential as a puppy, and well as continued training and reinforcement as to what constitutes appropriate behaviour as an adult. Dogs have to learn that it is not appropriate to "hunt" children, cats etc. 5. Fear Aggression If a dog is fearful, then an aggressive response is one natural way to respond. Again the likelihood that a dog will respond in this way depends on many factors, and will vary between individuals. Any new situation has the potential to frighten a dog. Be aware that ANY dog in a situation that is UNFAMILIAR to the dog MAY behave aggressively if it is frightened. The best solution to this problem is to try to expose your puppy to as many situations as possible while it is still young (under 16 weeks). Puppy pre-school classes are an important part of this process. A confident, well socialised, and properly controlled dog is much less likely to be frightened by life, and therefore less likely to show fear aggression. 6. Dominance Aggression This is a very common problem because it is a natural behaviour. In the wild, dogs are pack animals, and have a definite social hierarchy. This social ranking is determined by dominance, with dogs fighting for their place in the social order. The more dominant positions obviously confer the most social advantage, and are therefore highly desirable. For this reason inter-dog aggression can be common, with individuals fighting with each other to determine social order. The dog world is not a democracy!!. In situations where dogs live with people, we form their social pack and they compete with us for dominant status. Conflict can arise when the dog seeks to dominate humans in the family pack. It is important that everyone in the household assumes dominance over the dog. This can be done through proper training of the dog, and by adhering strictly to the rules. Dominance behaviour is strongly genetically based, with puppies inheriting the temperament of their parents. Dogs are often bred more for physical attributes than for personality type and this can create problems with certain lines of dogs. It is important to study the behaviour of both parents when selecting a puppy. Dominance aggression can be a very serious problem, and may need the advice of a specialist animal behaviourist. A dominantly aggressive dog needs to be slowly retrained to learn that it is no longer at the top of the social order. All members of the household must participate in training, and learning to dominant the dog. A non-confrontational approach is required, to avoid physical injury to the people involved. COMMON BEHAVIOURAL PROBLEMS OF CATS As with dogs, there are many problems that can occur from time to time. We will confine our discussion to urine spraying, and then to inappropriate toilet habits, and then a little about scratching. Please contact us to discuss other problems. This is meant to describe the action where a cat deposits a small quantity of urine, in a spray, onto a surface. This behaviour can occur in cats of both sexes, and of all ages. The severity of the spraying depends upon lots of factors, relating to the cats temperament and its environment. There are many possible causes of this behaviour. It is important always to rule out any physical reason, such as cystitis. Get your cat checked by a veterinarian if you notice this behaviour. Urine spraying is an important form of communication, via scent marking. The spraying of urine advertises the presence of that cat in that territory at that time. Accordingly, the incidence of spraying is much higher in multi cat households, where there is increased competition. Urine spraying also communicates other things, such as reproductive state, and for this reason it is more common in entire animals. Particular spots are favoured for marking, and often many "layers" of urine are deposited. For this reason, it is important not to use strong smelling agents when cleaning up sprayed urine. It is especially important to avoid the use of cleaning compounds containing ammonia, as these resemble urine, and will only increase the attractiveness of the sprayed areas. Use an enzymatic spray or powder, bicarbonate of soda, and water only. Urine spraying appears to relieve anxiety in cats, and an increase in spraying activity is often the result of the cat becoming anxious over some change in its environment. There are many potential causes of anxiety, and the triggers will vary between individual cats .Some possible causes of anxiety are household changes, such as owner absence or new additions to the family; new cats in the neighbourhood or a change of residence; being ignored by the owner; being confined or frustrated etc. Effectively controlling a spraying problem involves firstly identifying the cat(s) that are spraying; understanding the reasons why they are spraying; and then making adjustments to the environment, the cat, and to its routine. There are many techniques that may be appropriate, depending upon the individual circumstances of each case. Sometimes surgery or anti-anxiety medications may be necessary. It is important that the cat not be punished, as this can worsen the situation, and create new problems. A new product called Feliway offers a solution in many cases of urine marking behaviour. It can be prescribed after a consultation to determine the exact cause and likely effectiveness of the remedy. A cat may begin to go to the toilet randomly at different spots, or may develop a preference for a new toilet spot, which may not be acceptable to the owner. Such behaviour may have a physical cause, such as old age or hormonal incontinence, constipation, cystitis, arthritis, or pain, and it is important to have this checked out. This problem may also be the result of incomplete housetraining, where the cat has never consistently used a tray, and the problem worsens over time. Even good housetraining can break down if the cat develops "conditioned avoidance" i.e. every time it goes to the litter tray something terrible happens, such as a tablet is given, there is a loud noise, the dog appears etc. Toilet problems may also be due to anxiety, such as fear or separation anxiety. A lot of problems concern the litter that is used. Each cat is unique in its requirements, and it may be necessary to offer a variety of litters until the cat finds one that is acceptable. This may even be no litter at all if the cat has a preference for smooth surfaces. It is important too to clean out the tray often, at least every day, as many cats will not go if the tray is dirty. The type of cleaning agent used may also be important in some cases. The number of trays is also important, especially in multi-cat households. Also consider the location - it must be accessible, safe and quiet, and not too close to food, as cats do not like to toilet near their eating area. Some cats prefer a covered tray. Cats are all individuals and are often fastidious, so it is important to consider their preferences and needs in relation to their toilet area. Cats like routine, and are upset by changes, and often problems are precipitated by some change in the toileting environment, or in the cats general home environment. Fixing these problems depends once again on establishing the cause or causes behind the behaviour. The treatment protocol will be unique for each situation, and is based on logical principles such as decreasing access to, and attractiveness of current toilet areas; increasing the attractiveness of the desired location; and reducing anxiety. Cats naturally scratch surfaces, and this seems to be a pleasurable thing for them to do. It is also a significant form of communication, both visually, and through scent. Cats tend to stretch and scratch following a rest. Because it is highly likely that your cat will want to engage in this natural behaviour, it is best to provide a suitable scratching post for them to use. This is best placed near the favoured resting area, and should be attractive to the cat. They typically like material that can be torn out, such as loosely woven carpet or fabric, over the top of a post which is at least 60cm in height. Train your kitten to use the post, and reward it for good behaviour. This will reduce the likelihood of other spots eg household furniture items, becoming favoured scratching objects. Problems arise when cats scratch and damage household items, because there was no scratching post provided, or because the furniture is more attractive than the scratching post. You can attempt to discourage the cat from scratching using aversion therapy with loud noises or water or by the use of soft, plastic mouse traps. It may be necessary to eliminate access to the preferred object or surface. At the same time the cat should be retrained to use the preferred surface, by rewarding it for the desired behaviour. If the cat continues to go back to the inappropriate object, then the scratching post must be increased in attractiveness, considering location, smell and texture. It may be necessary to provide more than one post. For further information on a specific problem, or to arrange a behaviour consultation, please contact either of our clinics below, or email us. |