Preamble: |
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In selecting touring equipment a few things should be taken into consideration, especially when it comes to cost. The general rule of thumb goes like this. The lighter the piece of equipment, the more it will cost. The reverse of this naturally is that cheap gear is heavy. And heavy gear is a burden when you are touring, especially in the bush. I recommend you go for the lightest, most expensive equipment you can afford. By this I don't mean spending an absolute fortune on equipment, then finding yourself working two jobs to pay for it all. You should strive to find a balance between gear you can afford and gear that won't make your bike weigh a ton when you load it up. Also more expensive gear should generally be of a higher quality, and therefore longer lasting, but this may not always be the case. |
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When it comes to selecting equipment for bush touring, or for anything in that matter, a little research goes a long way. Outdoor magazines often have equipment reviews - this is especially true for wet weather gear. See if your friends have any recommendations, based on their experience and talk to the staff at your local camping shop. But most of all shop around. Another handy tip (here in Australia at least) is to belong to the YHA network. You can get a discount, somewhere between 5-10% at most camping outfitters. The cost of membership will be more than recouped in the first year, especially if you are gearing up for the first time. |
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These pages are based upon my own experience and are not to be taken as the be all and end all when it comes to equipment or bush cycle touring, and are intended as a guide to help familiarise people with some of the issues to be considered when selecting equipment. Also any recommendation I make as to a particular brand of item should be taken as an endorsement based upon my own experience with that item and not as a paid endorsement by the manufacturer. |
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Having said all that let's look at some equipment…
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Panniers: |
Panniers should be waterproof or at least water resistant, with a large flap to completely cover the opening and also have a "storm closure" with a draw string. Ideally they should come with at least one outer pocket, for storing day use items. A reasonable capacity is required, probably around 20-25 litres each. This would be large enough to carry sleeping bag, clothes, food and other items that need to be kept dry. |
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Another consideration when selecting panniers is how they attach to your rack. Some panniers have a tendency to leap from the bike (as if in fear for their lives), so a secure method of restraint is required. Third party modifications can be made to most panniers to prevent their escape, but this may not be necessary. |
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For most touring situations a pair of rear mounting panniers should be sufficient. Anything that doesn't need to be kept dry (ie tent & water) can be strapped on top of the rack. For extended touring a pair of front mounted panniers may also be required. The difficulty with front panniers is with the increasing tendency towards bicycles with front shock absorbers it is difficult, but not impossible, to mount a rack on the front forks. See the section on racks for more details.
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Rack: |
 I only have one recommendation for a rack. The Blackburn EX-1+ expedition rack. It has three vertical struts either side of the wheel as opposed to the usual two and it’s strong. Also Blackburn is the only equipment manufacturer that provides an unconditional lifetime warranty on all their gear. If one of their racks or (other piece of gear) should break, take it to the nearest bike shop - no matter where you are - and they will replace it. It’s that simple. I have personally broken a Blackburn rack (not an EX-1+) and had it replaced whilst on the road, so I can personally attest to the validity of the Blackburn warranty. |
 As mentioned earlier there may be a situation that requires the fitting of a front rack. Once again I would recommend a Blackburn rack and probably MTF-1 Mountain Rack. If your bike has rigid forks then installation is quite straightforward. However if your bike has front suspension then it is quite a different matter. |
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A certain amount of engineering may be required to fit the rack to the forks. One approach is to make up a pair of clamps to attach the rack to the suspension forks, similar in fashion to mounting to rigid forks. I have seen a couple of racks attached in this manner and they seem to perform quite well, although some bracing may also be required back to the brake booster to prevent the rack from swaying. |
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A friend of mine wanted to drill through his front suspension forks to attach a rack, so he approached the fork manufacturers for a copy of the blueprints, to see exactly where it was safe to drill. They were quite happy to provide the information as long as he understood any modification would void his warranty. This method also works quite well but requires a bit more skill and should not be considered lightly. Also the suspension manufacturer may not be willing to give out their specifications to everyone.
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Cooking Stoves: |
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There are two philosophies when it comes to cooking stoves. Pressurised and Unpressurised fuel stoves. The main contenders from each camp are the MSR and the Trangia respectively, with variations from other manufacturers. Let's take a look at these two philosophies separately. |
 Pressurised fuel stoves, such as those made by MSR, have the advantage that they can generally use a variety of different fuels, although this will depend on the exact model you buy. The (liquid) fuel is stored in a bottle which is attached to the burner ring by a hose. The bottle is pressurised by a plunger action and fuel discharge to the burner jet is regulated by way of a valve. The fuel comes out through the jet in vapour form which is then ignited and cooking can commence. The resultant flame is generally hotter than an unpressurised fuel source, which means cooking time should be less. This can be to great advantage when you're starving after a long day's ride. The ability to use different types of fuel (eg. Shellite, Kerosene or even Unleaded Petrol) is an advantage in that you are not restricted to one fuel source, which may be scarce where you are. However as I said earlier, this ability will depend on the exact model you buy. The disadvantages of pressurised fuel stoves are that the seals and hose can wear out, and the jets have to be kept clean to ensure proper function. Also a cooking vessel of some sort has to be purchased and carried, thus adding more weight. |
 Unpressurised fuel stoves, like those made by Trangia, have the advantage that they contain all the pieces you need to cook your meal - burner, pots and pans - all in one compact unit. The design is very simple with no moving parts to fail. The fuel, which is usually methylated spirits, is stored in a fuel bottle and decanted into a burner in the amount you need for that meal. The burner sits in a stand and has a wind shield around it which the cooking pot sits into. The lid also doubles as a frying pan and a plate. The flame is a little cooler due to the fuel being unpressurised, but cooking times are not significantly longer. The only disadvantage I can think of is the requirement to use methylated spirits, which may not be readily everywhere. |
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Whichever method you use to cook food, one essential piece of equipment is what is known as "billy grips" or "spondonicals". These are a lightweight device used to pick up and hold your cooking pots and pans, and are an indispensable piece of equipment for all cycle tourists.
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Water Purification: |
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At times when cycle touring the local water can be anything but pure. It's a fact that most people from industrialised (western) countries have stomachs that can't handle anything less than clean tap water. So when bush touring a method is needed to stabilise and purify water collected on the route. |
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There are a few different ways to approach the water purification issue, each with their own pros and cons. Let look at them individually. |
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Boiling water obtained locally from a stream is one approach to the problem. It will kill most if not all organisms living in water, but only if the water is boiled for a sufficient period of time. In this instance "boiling" really means boiling, the water has to get quite "lumpy" for at least 2 minutes. A few bubbles in the water is insufficient to kill anything. An advantage of this method is that you don't have to carry any specialised equipment. The disadvantages however are an increased demand on fuel (wether carried by yourself or obtained from the environment -ie fire wood) and also the period of time for boiled water to cool to drinking temperature. |
 Water filters and purifiers are a technological approach to the problem. The manufacturers of water filters and purifiers claim their products will remove 99.9% of all bacteria and other organisms from a water supply. This I would say is their main advantage, however it comes at a cost. The units themselves are reasonably pricey, and require some maintenance to ensure their optimum function. Other disadvantages include the space required to carry them (ie one more thing to carry) and the time and effort it takes to pump a sufficient quantity of water through them. Having said all this I believe there are situations where a water filter or purifier would be invaluable, for instance travelling in the third world. |
Iodine tablets are yet another approach to the problem. They work on the principle of killing anything in the water. However this means you are ingesting the dead organisms as opposed to removing them with a filter or purifier (ingestion also takes place in the boiling method described above). A quantity of iodine, in the form of either tablets of liquid, is deposited into your water container to a prescribed ratio and mixed thoroughly. It then takes a short period of time for the iodine to do its' work (about 20 minutes), but after this the water will be safe to drink. The advantages of this system is the relatively small space required to carry a bottle of iodine tablets / liquid and also its' effectiveness. The disadvantages are the resultant taste of the water, which tastes like iodine, but this can easily be overcome by using neutraliser tablets, which I believe is basically Vitamin C. Iodine and neutraliser tablets can be bought together in one pack. The other main disadvantage is that prolonged and continual use of iodine can lead to kidney damage, so care is to be taken if using this approach to purification.
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Should be light weight and generally resistant to all weather conditions. A bit of common sense is required to select a tent. If you are travelling in a generally warm climate then a 4 season tent would be an overkill, and in fact if the weather is very warm you could be quite comfortable under a fly sheet. If however you are snow camping then a 4 season tent is a must. Some touring cyclists have a couple of tents to choose from, depending on the climate and the terrain.
A similar amount of common sense should be used when selecting a sleeping bag. Selection should be based upon the type of climate you anticipate yourself riding in. Similar to tents, a 4 season bag will not be necessary if you are predominantly touring in warmer parts of the year. Once again if you are considering snow camping, then a 4 season bag is a must.
Here the choice comes down to two contenders, the closed cell foam mat versus the self inflating mat, generically known as a Therm-a-Rest (Although this is actually a brand name). The advantage of the closed cell variety is its’ cost (around AUD$20 at your local camping store), whereas a Therm-A-Rest will cost upwards of AUD$100.
Why would you pay a hundred bucks for a mat I hear you ask? The answer can be summed up in one word. COMFORT. While the closed cell mat is comfortable there is very little give, which can make for an uncomfortable night’s sleep. The Therm-a-Rest will support your body and also have a little give for your hips, which generally stick out a bit when you are lying down. Also unless you are very tall, you can go for what is known as the ¾ sized Therm-A-Rest, which will save you a few bucks and be a bit less bulky when you pack. Interestingly enough there is very little weight difference between a closed cell mat and a Therm-A-Rest, so weight doesn’t really come into the equation.
Water is probably the most precious commodity when touring, along with food and shelter. You need water to drink, to cook with and (occasionally) to wash with. So some sort of water storage container is a necessity. There is no right or wrong way to carry water. Some people use wine bladders from a wine cask. They are light, strong and can easily be stored inside your panniers with little worry about them leaking. Other people use PET soft drink or juice bottles to the same satisfaction. Others again use what is commonly known as a Dromedary Bag (which is actually a brand name). This is typically a canvas or cordura style bag with a waterproof lining, a large mouth for filling, with a screw cap for pouring. The advantage of these is that they usually have a carry strap around the periphery of the bag, allowing them to be strapped to the top of your rack, thus enabling you to balance your load. They come in different capacities, ranging from 2 litre to 10 litre models.
